The stain of Slavery in Stonetown, Zanzibar

The stain of Slavery in Stonetown, Zanzibar

I walk into a light, bright, white wooden building, sunfilled with soaring ceilings, in Stonetown, Zanzibar. It is now seemingly an art market for tourists, but was previously a hostel and orphanage. However a quick walk down the steps into the cellar and a different history emerges. Here is one of the few remaining pieces of [...]

Tall Tales of Twiga in Tanzania

Tall Tales of Twiga in Tanzania

Doesn’t Swahili has the best animal names of any language ?  Twiga for giraffe, Simba for lion, Tembo for elephant – to me these swahili words sound exactly like the animals look! Especially ‘Twiga’, which somehow manages to convey the tallness, the awkwardness and the beauty of a giraffe in one short punchy word. Twiga [...]

Spicy cooking secrets of Zanzibar

Spicy cooking secrets of Zanzibar

This is a full immersion cooking class. I’m quashed into the back seat of the dala-dala(local minivan buses), escorted by the chatty Heelal and the quieter Sa’id, on my way to Afura’s house on the outskirts of Stonetown.  Heelal is one of the people who have set up this network of mothers who take tourists [...]

Controlling my inner Angelina

Controlling my inner Angelina

“oh, I just want to take them all home” I cry,  as I am surrounded by a dozen gorgeous smiling tanzanian children in Magara village. Until now, I can safely say that adopting a child had never crossed my mind at any time in my life, and suddenly I am coming over all Angelina Jolie [...]

Magara - painting the town (school) cream

Magara – painting the town (school) cream

We breath in thick red dust as we bounce over the corrugated tracks at speed, we ford rivers with no bridges, we hold our breath as the wheels almost bog down in the mud and exhale again as we pull free without having to get out and push, and we close our eyes as the [...]

How to travel without luggage (even if you start with some).

How to travel without luggage (even if you start with some).

Precision Air Mark I. As usual we all mill around the luggage conveyor belt as it creaks into action, and the first bags start coming around. The first bags get grabbed up quickly, then… nothing. After a couple of minutes of nothing, a guy sticks his head through the opening next to the luggage pick [...]

Lions vs Zebra - the Tarangire soap opera ( a pictorial)

Lions vs Zebra – the Tarangire soap opera ( a pictorial)

Once upon a time, in a far away Tanzanian National Park, as evening fell, two lionesses rested under a large baobab tree. One just lies on her back and stretches, the other moves to the front of the tree to show off to the landrover load of tourists who have just arrived. Lioness A continues [...]

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