So my sister emails this from Brisbane and says “Thought you guys would love to see the new Aussie pet in our complex – this was taken on Wednesday in Sue’s (neighbour’s) garden.”
What I want to know is “if that was Wednesday, where is it NOW?”. Oh, and I am never visiting you or Brisbane again. I know this country is full of snakes, I just don’t want any proof, ever! Snakephobia rules.
Whether you call yourself a tourist or a traveller, whether you are away for a week or a year, I bet you have clothing in your bag that combines khaki and zips. If you are on an ‘adventure’ trip, chances are pretty much your entire wardrobe meets the khaki and zips description. When did this become the uniform to prove you were a hard core traveller – even if you are just on your way to Las Vegas for a weekend? Sure, safari suits were in fashion in the seventies, but have been completely lame ever since, so why is the travel uniform now basically a safari suit with 14 extra pockets and zips? Sure, it makes sense to have fabrics that are comfortable, that are suited for the heat or the cold, but there’s no reason they have to be khaki safari suits with added zips. And its not like other colours and styles aren’t available, so why look like a clone?
When I first started travelling some 23 years ago, there were plenty of traveler uniforms, worn at different times by various sub-tribes. But everyone else just wore their most comfortable ‘normal’ clothes that suited the climate. There was the tie-dye/hippy look available in markets worldwide, which we were already deriding as “so last decade” but somehow would end up with bits of in the pack the longer we travelled -but at least it always got thrown away as soon as we got home.
There was the ‘track pants teamed with souvenir t-shirts of places we’d been to’ look (or alternatively t-shirts with the logos of beers we had drunk). There was the preppy golf shirt look, preferably a Lacoste knock-off from Istanbul or Kuta. There was even a period (particularly for British travellers) of shiny shell suits in violently clashing colours. All of these were pretty bad looks, but we were unlikely to find every traveler we met wearing the same thing, and it was at least colourful. So when did the “styled by Ralph Lauren’s tasteless cousin with an oversupply of khaki and zips” trend start to creep in, and how did it get so ubiquitous?
The first time I really noticed it completely taking over was about five years ago in Luang Prabang. It was the same time I noticed two other very disturbing (for me) trends. I realised that well over 50% of the tourists in Luang Prabang at the time were baby boomers – far outnumbering the young backpackers and everyone else in between. I don’t know if it was just a fluke, a random occurance, but it certainly surprised me. And every single one of those baby boomers were wearing expensive “made for travel” khaki trousers, with zip off legs and countless other pockets and zips. And far too many of them were pairing their khaki trousers with crocs. The takeover of khaki zipped trouser + croc wearing baby boomers was painfully obvious as they elbowed their way in every morning so they could shove their camera lens three inches from the faces of the monks as they wound their way around town at dawn collecting alms. It was not a pretty picture of the potential future of travel. It was consistent across at least a dozen nationalities that I could identify. And while it was most obvious on the babyboomers, it was certainly not exclusive to them.
On a recent flight, after being on safari in Tanzania, I was reading the inflight magazine ‘Tailwind” and came across a like minded article by Anthea Rowan, who also has a really interesting blog ReluctantMemsahib. Here’s some quotes from her article, confirming that I am not the only person perplexed by the khaki and zips uniform.
It only lasts for a quick two weeks, it’s already half over for this year, and it is a highlight of Bondi that I look forward to every year. It brings out the crowds – even with all the rain this year. Today it is glorious sunshine, and it’s a Sunday, so it is really, really packed – not surprising when you think that approx 400,000 people visit it every year, over 16 days!
Why do I like it so much? – well it’s partly the location – a stunning seaside walk around headlands and bays, with the ocean as a backdrop to the sculptures – that is pretty amazing. And then there are the many dozens of sculptures, in a huge array of styles and sizes – although ‘big’ always looks good in this environment! Everyone will have their own favourites, there are plenty to go around. Oh, and it’s free – can’t get much better then that. (but programs cost $10 if you want to know what it is you are looking at). And then there are the many Bondi cafes and bars for a restorative bite or drink at the end.
It’s so good it has now spread to WA (Cottesloe Beach) and Aarhus in Denmark.
If you have a choice, try and visit on a week day. Early in the morning or later in the evening are both particularly good if you want to maximise the amount of open space around each sculpture – sneak out of work a bit early and you can have an hour or two to wander before it gets too dark. I want to say that even on the crowded weekends it’s still well worth a visit, but I am struggling to! If you must come on the weekend, bring a water supply and lots of patience.
If you are bringing your young kids with you, (and you should, they’ll enjoy it), keep an eye out for signs on some of the sculptures asking us not to touch them, climb in or on them etc. The majority of the sculptures are robust and touchable, but some are not, or may be dangerous to play on. I am amazed at the number of parents who read the signs out or point them out to each other – and then send their kids off to play on them anyway, or to pose on them for the “perfect” photo. Theres a playground in Marks Park as well, so no excuses.
So just one question then – have you walked the Sculptures yet?
Make no mistake, Stonetown, Zanzibar, is exotic. When I was here 18 years ago I fell for the atmosphere, the unique look and feel of the place, because there really wasn’t much else to do here but wander and soak up the atmosphere. Now there are so many things to do, while still preserving that marvellous feeling of having stumbled into a truly timeless place. Here are some of my favourite things about Stonetown today.!
- Forodhani Night Market. As sunset arrives every night, the tables and bbqs appear, the breeze carries mouth watering smells, and locals and tourists alike descend on Forodhani Park on the waterfront for the night food markets. There is a massive range of seafood, just listening to the sales patter of each stall as they reel off the long list of seafood options is half the fun. I am a fan of the stall juicing fresh sugar cane on the spot. But my absolute favourite – the “Zanzibar pizza” – is more like a roti folded around your choice of filling and fried on the hot plate. The beef pizza filling is minced beef, onions, chillies, spices, cheese, mayonnaise and a raw egg – and there’s a divine banana/chocolate mix for dessert. They are very moreish, and very cheap, I keep coming back every night. The first night’s dinner is a beef pizza, the second night is a banana pizza for dessert first, before I headed out to a restaurant for dinner, and on the third night a group of us have beef pizzas as an entree between cocktails and a restaurant.
- Sunset Dhow Cruise. I am a bit wary of sunset cruises as a traveller – my expectation is usually an overpriced crowded boat with a tiny portion of cheap bubbles and stale cheddar cheese. But Zanzibar is known for its sunsets, so i risk it, and it is well worth it. There are four of us on the dhow, with three crew, and seating for at least ten on the deck. A quick climb up the ladder and I find a cushion covered rooftop that can comfortably fit another dozen, we have plenty of space to spread out. We are offered a choice of juice, beer or wine, all very drinkable, and accompanied by a mini feast with a strong Italian flavour – handmade hard Italian cheeses, tomatoes stuffed with soft cheese and olives, herb cheese ravioli, sweet chilli squid and cassava chips, all well matched with my beer. Managing to serve deliciously soft, non-chewy squid in such an environment is a sign of just how good the nibbles (and the cook) are. Its a couple of chilled out hours watching nothing more than the coast line, other dhows, working fishing boats and expensive cruise boats gliding past. On this night there is a light cloud cover so we don’t even get the blood red sunset, but its so relaxing, it doesn’t matter.
Darajani markets. When do I not love a market? This is a large sprawling produce market for the locals, not tourists (except for a few spice stalls) -there are halls of fruit, veges, spices and the more confronting meat, poultry and fish halls. Watching the auctions in the fish markets are a real highlight.
- Clove Hotel. I love this type of hotel – small boutique, well designed & renovated, full of character and excellent value. It is in the old town, a block from Forodhani Square, a block from Hurumzi St (the main shopping street). Be warned, it is only suitable for active guests, it’s in the pedestrian part of town so you’ll need to carry your bag the final block or so, and then up to reception on the 1st floor and then up to your room on the 2nd to 4th floors, as there is no lift. The highlight is the roof terrace on the 4th floor, perfect for breakfast, or sunset drinks, or relaxing in a breeze in the middle of a hot day – reclining on one of the couches and uploading all your photos to the web on the free wifi! There is an honesty bar for the guests. My room is beautifully furnished in a modern zanzibari style, with a very modern polished concrete bathroom attached. I sleep very soundly each night in the huge four poster bed swathed in romantic mosquito netting, although I don’t have any problems with mosquitos during my stay anyway.
- Eating. In spite of eating at the night markets every night, I also manage to sample a fair number of other eateries as well, so no risk of me going hungry. Silk Route is a great spot for a group to have a spicy indian feast; Archipelago has a lot of light, healthy fish dishes, my favourite is a very tasty sweet chilli baby squid plate. And the “garden bar” in the sand in front of Livingstone is perfect for lunch or simply a cold beer stop. I am amazed to find one restaurant that I ate at 18 years ago, the Dolphin, is still in existence now, although I discover this too late to try it again this time.
- Spa Treatments. These definitely didn’t exist 18 years ago but now there are many to choose from, I am recommended Mrembo, just past the Catholic Church on Cathedral Street. After a couple of weeks of sleeping on a mat and shaking over corrugated dirt roads in Tanzania, I am ready for a bit of pampering. All the treatments involve local flowers, herbs and spices, so it smells beautiful as soon as I walk in. I start with two treatments at the same time – at one end I am having a pedicure which includes a sand, cardamon, and aloe vera scrub. At the other end I get the “scalp treatment and steaming”. Warm olive oil is applied to my scalp, followed by a cream hair mask – the mask smells and feels like a spicy wet xmas cake mix on my head – I wonder if this is going to set permanently in my hair but as soon as they start the 20 minutes of finger tip pressure head massage, I stop thinking at all and doze off. After washing it all off, i have the softest, thickest, shiniest hair I’ve had in years. Now it’s time for the rest of the body – the hot “mbarika” leaf massage involves being massaged with Mbrika leaves which have been soaked in hot water, followed by an aromatherapy massage, and not surprisingly I nod off again. That’s a very successfully relaxing two hours.
- Designer shops. 18 years ago there were no tourist shops to speak of, that has well and truly changed now, with dozens of streets and alleys lined with a huge variety of shops filled with all sorts of traditional arts and crafts along with the usual tourist t-shirts and back packer clothing. What I particularly like are the handful of “designer” shops, where local designers and seamstresses are selling clothing, bags, jewellry, and home furnishings, mixing traditional fabrics and styles with a more modern design aesthetic. Most are scattered along Hurumzi or just off it in smaller alleyways so they are not hard to find . For really interesting dresses and tops check out Indaco & Mago, and for t-shirts I’d recommend One Way, where all t-shirts are made from locally grown organic cotton.
- Sunset drinks on the rooftop bar at Africa House. This is one of the few things that has remained the same from my visit 18 years ago to this one – except this time I am drinking expensive cocktails instead of cheap beers.
- Cooking Class. This is one of the eclectic range of activities that the staff at Clove hotel have sourced for their guests to try, and it is a very stimulating, personal, hands-on half day in the basic house of a local family being taught by the mother of the house.
- Architecture. Given the mix of nationalities that have visited, ruled and traded in Zanzibar over the centuries, it’s no surprise that the architecture is pretty varied as well. From the Portuguese fort to the Omani Palaces, the renovated to the dilapidated, I spend a lot of time peering upwards; and then there are also the traditional solid carved doors on the Zanzibari houses, some very ornate, some very old ones telling stories through their carvings.